| 發(fā)布日期：2021-06-23 14:56:51 來(lái)源：國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟秘書處 分享到： |
為討論絲綢行業(yè)實(shí)現(xiàn)“碳中和”的方案、路徑與關(guān)鍵技術(shù)，推進(jìn)適合絲綢全產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的生命周期評(píng)價(jià)研究，維護(hù)絲綢的國(guó)際形象與行業(yè)利益，促進(jìn)全球絲綢可持續(xù)與綠色消費(fèi)，2021年6月10日，“絲綢可持續(xù)發(fā)展國(guó)際智庫(kù)論壇”在中國(guó)杭州順利召開(kāi)。
In order to discuss the plans, paths and key technologies for the silk industry to achieve carbon neutrality, promote life cycle assessment research suitable for the entire silk industry chain, maintain the international image of silk and industry interests, and promote the sustainable and green consumption of global silk, On June 10, 2021, International Think Tank Forum on Silk Sustainable Development was successfully held in Hangzhou, China.
中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)聯(lián)合會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng)、國(guó)際紡聯(lián)主席孫瑞哲為論壇視頻致辭。孫瑞哲表示，當(dāng)前，全球氣候變化正以前所未有的速度和幅度影響著人類社會(huì)發(fā)展，改變著產(chǎn)業(yè)生態(tài)與經(jīng)貿(mào)格局。堅(jiān)持可持續(xù)發(fā)展，實(shí)現(xiàn)碳中和已經(jīng)成為全球的產(chǎn)業(yè)共識(shí)與競(jìng)合焦點(diǎn)。本次絲綢可持續(xù)發(fā)展國(guó)際智庫(kù)論壇的一個(gè)重要目標(biāo)，就是要為絲綢行業(yè)實(shí)現(xiàn)“碳中和”尋找科學(xué)的方案和路徑，為絲綢產(chǎn)品全生命周期評(píng)價(jià)尋找客觀的技術(shù)與方法，從而更好維護(hù)全球絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)的形象與利益。并對(duì)全球絲綢行業(yè)的同仁們提出三點(diǎn)倡議：一是堅(jiān)持實(shí)事求是，科學(xué)設(shè)置目標(biāo)。二是堅(jiān)持問(wèn)題導(dǎo)向，系統(tǒng)提升能力。三是堅(jiān)持國(guó)際合作，共同應(yīng)對(duì)挑戰(zhàn)。
Sun Ruizhe, president of China National Textile and Apparel Council, and president of International Textile Manufacturers Federation, gave a video address for the forum. He expressed, global climate change is affecting human society in a speed and a scale we have never seen before. It changes the ecology of industries and the landscape of economy and trade. Sustainability and carbon neutrality have become a general consensus and focus of coopetition of global industries. The main purpose of the Forum is to seek for a scientific solution to achieve carbon neutrality, and an objective methodology to evaluate the life cycle of silk products to protect the image as well as interests of global silk industry. He put forward three suggestions to all the colleagues and friends in the world silk industry: First, we need to set goals by seeking truth from facts. Second, we need to tackle the most pressing issues first to enhance overall capability. Third, we need to work globally to meet challenges.
論壇上半場(chǎng)由國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟副主席、中國(guó)絲綢博物館館長(zhǎng)、浙江理工大學(xué)國(guó)際絲綢學(xué)院副院長(zhǎng)趙豐主持，下半場(chǎng)由國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟副主席、四川省絲綢科學(xué)研究院名譽(yù)院長(zhǎng)陳祥平主持。
The first half of the forum was presided over by Zhao Feng, vice chairman of ISU, curator of China National Silk Museum, dean of International Institute of Silk of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; The second half of the forum was presided over by Chen Xiangping, vice chairman of ISU, honorary dean of Sichuan Academy of Silk Science.
主題報(bào)告
Report
Dileep Kumar R 國(guó)際蠶業(yè)委員會(huì)項(xiàng)目總協(xié)調(diào)
Dileep Kumar R表示希格指數(shù)通過(guò)未經(jīng)證實(shí)的信息和數(shù)據(jù)將絲綢描繪為不可持續(xù)的纖維。國(guó)際蠶業(yè)委員會(huì)（ISC）采取了系列行動(dòng)，旨在撤回希格指數(shù)發(fā)布，并將與絲綢行業(yè)相關(guān)的機(jī)構(gòu)合作，并制定真正反映跨地區(qū)生產(chǎn)過(guò)程的國(guó)際絲綢可持續(xù)性標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。
Dileep Kumar R, programme coordinator of International Sericultural Commission, expressed that the higg index portray silk as an unsustainable fibre based on fabricated and unsubstantiated information and data. International Sericultural Commission has embarked into a series of actions intending to withdraw the Higg Index from public space. ISC also would like to collaborate with agencies associated with silk industry to develop global sustainability standards for silk that truly reflect the production process across regions.
Graziano Elegir 意大利絲綢研究中心主任
Graziano Elegir闡述了六點(diǎn)Higg MSI的不合理之處，并介紹了近年來(lái)，Innovhub與瑞士大學(xué)合作，對(duì)環(huán)境產(chǎn)品申報(bào)（EPD）產(chǎn)品類別規(guī)則的定義進(jìn)行了從門到門的研究，為未來(lái)的絲綢產(chǎn)品環(huán)境標(biāo)簽和認(rèn)證鋪平道路。接下來(lái)，相關(guān)研究將爭(zhēng)取在科學(xué)期刊上出版，提高這些數(shù)據(jù)的可視性。
Graziano Elegir, head of Innovhub Silk Division, explained the irrationality of the Higg MSI, and introduced that in the last few years, Innovhub, in collaboration with a Swiss University, have conducted a gate-to-gate study for the definition of product category rules aimed at environmental product declaration (EPD). This work could pave the way for future environment labelling and certification of silk products. Next, it will be target a publication in a scientific Journal thus improving visibility of these data.
丁雪梅 東華大學(xué)服裝與藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)學(xué)院教授
丁雪梅介紹了紡織產(chǎn)品碳足跡核算與評(píng)價(jià)面臨的難測(cè)度、難量化、難應(yīng)用等技術(shù)瓶頸，通過(guò)解構(gòu)紡織產(chǎn)品、工藝鏈段、工序單元等各級(jí)模塊能源、物料投入和產(chǎn)出關(guān)系與影響因素，將復(fù)雜的生命周期清單分析環(huán)節(jié)分解為具有相對(duì)獨(dú)立性及明確特定功能的碳足跡核算單元模塊，構(gòu)建碳足跡模塊數(shù)據(jù)庫(kù)，為紡織工業(yè)的碳減排和碳達(dá)峰提供技術(shù)支撐。
Ding Xuemei, professor of College of Fashion and Design of Donghua University, introduced the bottlenecks to the calculation and assessment of textile products’ carbon footprint. By deconstructing the relationship and influence factors of energy, material input and output of each unit, the life cycle inventories were decomposed into carbon footprint calculation modules with relative independence and specific functions. The carbon footprint database is established, supporting the carbon emissions reduction of textile industry for the peak carbon emissions.
Jacques Poulenard 法國(guó)絲綢協(xié)會(huì)質(zhì)量技術(shù)委員會(huì)專家
Jacques Poulenard表示，法國(guó)絲綢協(xié)會(huì)匯聚了捻線、織造、染色、印花和后整理等主要企業(yè)，制造商向質(zhì)量技術(shù)委員會(huì)分享在技術(shù)、規(guī)范和法規(guī)等方面與市場(chǎng)相關(guān)的觀點(diǎn)和意見(jiàn)。質(zhì)量技術(shù)委員會(huì)開(kāi)展的工作有：新的生絲分類；法國(guó)絲綢生產(chǎn)鏈的碳足跡；整個(gè)絲綢供應(yīng)鏈的可追溯性；宣傳蠶絲纖維、絲綢產(chǎn)品和絲綢生產(chǎn)。
Jacques Poulenard, expert of the Quality and Technical Committee of INTERSOIE France, expressed that Intersoie France gathers all the know-how of the silk chain such as twisters, weavers, dyers, printers and finishers. The manufacturers share inside the Quality and Technical Committee all their Technical, Normative, and Regulatory questions in relation with the markets, their comments and opinions. Some of the main axis of the workshops led by Technical and Quality Committee: a) A new Classification for the raw silk material; b) The Carbon Footprint of the French silk production chain; c) Traceability all along the silk supply chain; d) The promotion of silk fibre, silk products and silk production.
陳維國(guó) 浙江理工大學(xué)紡織科學(xué)與工程學(xué)院（國(guó)際絲綢學(xué)院）教授
陳維國(guó)指出，絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)現(xiàn)代化的過(guò)程帶來(lái)了一些環(huán)境問(wèn)題。近十年以來(lái)，浙江理工大學(xué)絲綢印染團(tuán)隊(duì)先后開(kāi)展了篩選容易降解而無(wú)毒的天然染料、安全無(wú)毒易降解無(wú)鹽染色的合成染料、低能耗的冷軋堆染色、超臨界CO2染色等大量研究工作，將對(duì)絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)低碳可持續(xù)的發(fā)展產(chǎn)生深遠(yuǎn)的影響。
Chen Weiguo, professor of College of Textile Science and Engineering (International Institute of Silk) of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, expressed that the modernization of silk industries has brought some environmental problems. In the last two decades, the team have been working in many research areas relating to the sustainable issue of silk. There are some examples listed as following: selection and extraction of natural dyes from plants and traditional Chinese medicine with non-toxicity and easy degradation, synthesis of dyes with non-toxicity, easy degradation and the dyeing without salts, cold-pad and storage dyeing with low energy consumption, supercitical CO2 dyeing, etc.
Renata Amano 巴西絲綢協(xié)會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng)
Renata Amano介紹了絲綢的可持續(xù)及巴西絲綢的可持續(xù)發(fā)展目標(biāo)，并表示必須制定戰(zhàn)略計(jì)劃，克服絲綢可持續(xù)過(guò)程中的技術(shù)、社會(huì)和經(jīng)濟(jì)障礙。最后，向與會(huì)嘉賓介紹了發(fā)表主題報(bào)告的兩位巴西專家。
Renata Amano, president of Brazilian Silk Association, introduced the sustainability of silk and the sustainable development target of Brazilian silk, and expressed that strategies must be designed to overcome technical, social and economic barriers. Finally, she introduced the two Brazilian experts who published the theme report next.
Joao Berdu 巴西絲綢谷項(xiàng)目負(fù)責(zé)人
Joao Berdu表示，過(guò)去大家通常將絲綢與其它面料的色澤、重量進(jìn)行比較，而今更加傾向于比較可持續(xù)性和環(huán)境影響。國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟和國(guó)際蠶業(yè)委員會(huì)共同努力，通過(guò)研究小組去推動(dòng)更具代表性技術(shù)材料的生產(chǎn)，推進(jìn)絲綢的獨(dú)立生命周期評(píng)價(jià)，是符合絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)利益的。
Joao Berdu, project manager of Vale da Seda, expressed that in the past, people usually compared the weight and shining of silk with other fabrics, but now they are more inclined to compare sustainability and environmental impact. For sure it is in the interest of silk industry to promote independent life cycle assessment study on silk by joined efforts between International Sericultural Commission and International Silk Union. It is highly positive to have a study group to promote the production of more representative technical material to promote independent life cycle assessment of silk.
Silvia Barcelos 巴西馬林加州立大學(xué)教授
Silvia Barcelos采用ISO14040和14044，使用“搖籃到大門”的方法定義系統(tǒng)極限，分析了巴西蠶繭生產(chǎn)的生命周期評(píng)價(jià)，包括從桑樹(shù)種植到把新鮮蠶繭運(yùn)輸?shù)金B(yǎng)殖業(yè)的各種階段。結(jié)果表明，桑樹(shù)種植的影響更為突出，因此根據(jù)確定的影響程度，可以抓住時(shí)機(jī)，提出若干改善蠶繭生產(chǎn)的環(huán)境狀況。
Silvia Barcelos, professor of State University of Maringa, used the ISOs 14040 and 14044, and cradle-to-gate (C2G) approach, analyzed the life cycle assessment of silk cocoon production in Brazil, which comprised the stages from the cultivation of mulberry trees up to stage when the fresh cocoons are delivered to the rearing industry. It was possible to identify that the impacts of the production of mulberry trees stood out in comparison with those of the production of the silk cocoons. Based on the impacts identified, several opportunities can be put forward to improve the environmental profile of production of silk cocoons.
許建梅 蘇州大學(xué)紡織與服裝工程學(xué)院副教授
許建梅對(duì)絲綢產(chǎn)品進(jìn)行生命周期評(píng)價(jià)時(shí)建立一個(gè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的統(tǒng)一的方法，同時(shí)建立了絲綢產(chǎn)品碳足跡的計(jì)算模型，分析了各個(gè)模塊的生命周期評(píng)價(jià)框架，收集了其全生命周期中涉及到的能源與輸入物質(zhì)的碳排放系數(shù)。通過(guò)各個(gè)模塊的組合來(lái)對(duì)各類絲綢產(chǎn)品碳足跡進(jìn)行標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化核算。
Xu Jianmei, associate professor of School of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University, established an uniform and universal method in life cycle assessment for silk products, constructed a modularization method in determining SB of the silk products, analyzed the life cycle assessment framework of each module, the CFP conversion factors of energy sources and materials involved in the whole life cycle. Thus by combination of different modules, the CFP can be calculated on a standardized method.
陳宜燦 錦柯草木染（上海）紡織科技公司總經(jīng)理
錦柯草木染（上海）紡織科技公司總經(jīng)理陳宜燦介紹了植物染料的可持續(xù)、全球植物染料標(biāo)準(zhǔn)和PDS全球制造商聯(lián)盟、植物染色產(chǎn)業(yè)與碳中和/碳高峰等。植物染料在真絲織物印染的技術(shù)應(yīng)用有真絲面料染色和印花、絹絲色紡、真絲成衣染色等。
Chen Yican, general manager of Indidye Natural Color Co., Ltd., introduced the sustainability of plant dyes, plant dyes standard and PDS manufacturers Union, plant dyeing industry and carbon neutralization / carbon peak. The application of plant dyes in silk fabric printing and dyeing including silk fabric dyeing and printing, silk fiber dyeing, silk garment dyeing, etc.
王來(lái)力 浙江理工大學(xué)服裝學(xué)院副教授
王來(lái)力指出，在絲綢產(chǎn)品生命周期環(huán)境表現(xiàn)的研究過(guò)程中，應(yīng)將絲綢產(chǎn)品生命周期過(guò)程中產(chǎn)生的正面影響納入環(huán)境表現(xiàn)的量化與評(píng)價(jià)范圍，構(gòu)建絲綢產(chǎn)品使用和洗滌模型、回收再利用模型，構(gòu)建綜合考慮國(guó)家、區(qū)域、技術(shù)水平等因素的絲綢產(chǎn)品生命周期投入和產(chǎn)出清單數(shù)據(jù)庫(kù)，在結(jié)果評(píng)價(jià)階段選擇合適的歸一化方法，實(shí)現(xiàn)不同產(chǎn)品間環(huán)境表現(xiàn)結(jié)果的可比性。
Wang Laili, associate professor of School of Fashion Design & Engineering of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, expressed that in the research process of environmental performance in the life cycle of silk products, the positive performances during the life cycle of silk products should be considered, and constructed the using and washing models, recycling and reusing models, built input & output inventory database that comprehensively considers national, regional, technical level and other factors, choosing an appropriate normalization method for result reporting to achieve the comparability of environmental performances of different silk products is also very important.
Emilia Simoncini 意大利拉蒂公司代表
Emilia Simoncini通過(guò)數(shù)據(jù)和照片展示，闡釋了自然環(huán)境對(duì)人類的影響，并介紹了絲綢主要生產(chǎn)鏈上的生命周期評(píng)價(jià)，希望行業(yè)內(nèi)共同行動(dòng)，推動(dòng)客觀全面的絲綢生命周期評(píng)價(jià)。
Emilia Simoncini, representative of Ratti SpA, explained the impact of the natural environment on humans through a set of photos and data, and introduced the life cycle assessment of the main silk production chain. It is hoped that the industry will work together to promote an objective and comprehensive silk life cycle assessment.
宋波 全生命周期綠色管理專委會(huì)副秘書長(zhǎng)
宋波介紹了團(tuán)隊(duì)在全國(guó)范圍內(nèi)的絲綢行業(yè)現(xiàn)狀調(diào)研，收集了不同工序和不同工藝的絲綢產(chǎn)品LCA數(shù)據(jù)，進(jìn)行了絲巾碳足跡分析等，并向與會(huì)嘉賓分享了支撐絲綢產(chǎn)品供應(yīng)鏈碳減排的碳足跡核算與管理。
Song Bo, deputy secretary-general of the Life Cycle Assessment & Management, introduced the team’s national survey on the status quo of the silk industry, collected LCA data on silk products of different processes, conducted silk scarf carbon footprint analysis, etc., and shared with the guests the carbon footprint accounting and management for support carbon emission reduction in the silk product supply chain.
Francesco Ongetta Ongetta s.r.l.采購(gòu)經(jīng)理
Francesco Ongetta表示，2020年紡織業(yè)受到重創(chuàng)，意大利絲綢企業(yè)和意大利絲綢協(xié)會(huì)盡可能恢復(fù)生產(chǎn)，提高絲綢在紡織業(yè)的占比。絲綢在可持續(xù)、機(jī)械和物理方面表現(xiàn)出優(yōu)良的性能，需要共同維護(hù)絲綢的形象。
Francesco Ongetta, purchasing manager of Ongetta srl, expressed that 2020 has been an extremely difficult one for all of us operating in the textile field. In Italy, us as Ongetta srl and the Italian Silk Office resume production as much as possible to increase the proportion of silk in the textile industry. Silk has peculiar features in sustainability, mechanic and physics, and it is necessary to jointly maintain the image of silk.
論壇期間，國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟聯(lián)合國(guó)際蠶業(yè)委員會(huì)、意大利絲綢協(xié)會(huì)（UIS）、法國(guó)絲綢協(xié)會(huì)、巴西絲綢協(xié)會(huì)（ABRASEDA）等多家單位聯(lián)合發(fā)布了《全面客觀評(píng)價(jià)絲綢產(chǎn)品生命周期倡議書》。
During the forum, International Silk Union (ISU) joined hands with International Sericultural Commission (ISC), Ufficio Italiano Seta (UIS), INTERSOIE France and Brazilian Silk Association (ABRASEDA), released the Proposal for the Comprehensive and Objective Assessment of Life Cycle of Silk Products.
指導(dǎo)單位：中國(guó)紡織工業(yè)聯(lián)合會(huì)
主辦單位：國(guó)際絲綢聯(lián)盟
承辦單位：浙江理工大學(xué)紡織科學(xué)與工程學(xué)院（國(guó)際絲綢學(xué)院）
協(xié)辦單位：國(guó)際蠶業(yè)委員會(huì)、意大利絲綢協(xié)會(huì)、法國(guó)絲綢協(xié)會(huì)、巴西絲綢協(xié)會(huì)
支持單位：“絲綢之路周”學(xué)術(shù)委員會(huì)、浙江電視臺(tái)國(guó)際頻道、杭州市紡織工程學(xué)會(huì)
Guider: China National Textile and Apparel Council
Organizer: International Silk Union
Sponsor: College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk ), Zhejiang Sci-Tech University
Co-organizers: International Sericultural Commission, Ufficio Italiano Seta, Intersoie France, Brazilian Silk Association
Supporter: Academic Committee of “Silk Road Week”, Zhejiang TV International Channel, Hangzhou Textile Engineering Society
 |
| 微信公眾號(hào)，掃一掃 |
